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Comfort food


I’m finishing dinner while I type this.  My wife made chicken fried steak, collard greens, zucchini, and black-eyed peas.  It is a feast of comfort food.  It’s strange to me that this food is comfort food because it sounds like such a southern feast, and I am not remotely southern.  I have been thinking a lot about what qualifies as comfort food, and why.  Almost anything that my grandmother made is comfort food for me.  When I want comfort food I tend to what savory, filling food.  Usually fried, though not always.

My ex-husband is Chinese and some of the foods that he made me, or that we ate at restaurants have become comfort food for me, as well.  Congee, a boiled rice soup, is the only thing I want when I am sick.  When I am sad I crave green onion pancakes, and salt and pepper tofu.  I want thick noodles, covered in savory rich sauces.  I want chewy balls of dough covered in sesame seeds.  Just writing this is making my mouth water, even though I just ate an enormous meal.

I think that what I am learning is that what I consider comfort food evolves as I grow and change, and experience different foods from what I grew up with.  As an adult, I want my grandmother’s cooking, my ex-husband’s cooking, and my wife’s cooking.  All of these things are comforting to me in different ways.  My grandmother’s cooking can only be had when I make it myself, but luckily Jed and Mag still cook for me whenever I ask.

Here’s a recipe for congee:

http://www.myrecipes.com/recipe/rice-congee-soup-jook-10000001097027/

Coffee

Coffee and I have had an on again, off again love affair.  Growing up, my family drank the most disgusting crap.  Folgers, or Maxwell House, or whatever else was on sale.  I drank it as soon as anyone would let me, because it was what the adults did.  I didn’t like it very much, but with enough milk and sugar it was tolerable.  When I was a teenager, I discovered the better coffee to be found in coffee shops.  I spread my wings in those shops.  I learned about different kinds of roasts, and the difference between a latte and an espresso.  I also learned about myself.

 

I became part of the culture of the coffee shop that I hung out in.  I worked there briefly.  I dated people that I met there.  I joined the poetry open mic.  That might have been the experience that stayed with me the longest.  I still write poetry, though I rarely go to open mics anymore.

 

When I moved to Seattle, it felt like I’d moved to the coffee capital of the universe.  There are coffee shops on almost every major intersection.  I quickly found myself spending ten dollars or more a day to feed my caffeine habit.  My now ex-husband found an espresso machine at a rummage for a dollar, and my finances were saved, but my caffeine consumption skyrocketed.  At the height of my insanity I drank four shots of espresso a day, which is about 300 milligrams of caffeine.  Between that, and the pack of cigarettes I smoked every day I was a bit shaky most of the time.  I finally quit smoking four years ago, and stopped drinking coffee at the same time.

 

I didn’t drink any coffee for four long years, and honestly I didn’t miss it.  I moved this summer, and suddenly found myself at Starbucks three or four times a day for lattes.   The espresso maker from my ex-husband was long gone, and my daily coffee bill was adding up rapidly.  I decided to buy my newest love in the kitchen.  I purchased a tiny French press to brew my coffee in at home.  It makes ten ounces of coffee at a time.  I also invested in some fabulous and delicious organic French roast beans from the local health food coop.  Every morning I wake up to the lovely ritual of making my coffee.  First, I fill the French press with hot water, to warm on my counter.  I also fill a teakettle to put on the stove to boil.  Then I grind the beans while the water boils.  When the water comes to a boil, I turn it off and put a candy thermometer in the teapot.  The water must be between 190 and 210 degrees F.  When the water is at the proper temperature, I dump the warm water out of the French press, add three tablespoons of coffee, and pour the hot water from the teakettle over top.  I set the timer on my stove for four minutes.  When the timer sounds, I press the plunger down, and immediately pour my coffee into a tall clear glass.  I add a bit of stevia to sweeten it, and some cold milk, and take that first invigorating sip.

 

 

 

 

Sugar Sugar…

Sugar. Sugar. Sugar. I have been on a sugar kick lately. I didn’t eat any for months, and now that I’ve started, I seem to be a bit addicted to it. I have been craving cakes, cookies, ice cream, pie, tarts, you name it, if it’s sweet I want it. I’ve been in an uproar in my personal life lately, and I think that the sugar cravings are about wanting comfort. Sadly though, I think that the craving for sugar is not helpful. In the end sweet things don’t give comfort, they give excess weight, sleepless nights, and diabetes. Not so comforting. In spite of all that, I’ve been giving in to the urge more often than not, and now I have to stop. It is time for me to decide if I want to simply stop eating anything sweet, or go back to eating sweet things that don’t have sugar but use other sweeteners instead, like stevia or fruit juice.

This drive to eat better is not a one time choice. I am learning that it is an ongoing decision, that must be made moment by moment, and day by day, and it is not always easy to choose what is right. There are biological reasons that sugar and carbs are soothing to humans when we are stressed. Eating them helps regulate serotonin levels, and may even release serotonin in the brain. It is logical that times of stress bring about carb and sugar cravings for many people. Understanding the science, and battling the urges are two different things, however.

I’ve started trying to meet those cravings with fruit. Fruit has sugar. Fruit is a carb. Cherries are rich and flavorful. Ripe juicy plums are delicious and sweet. They don’t quite hit the same spot as ice cream, but it’s a step in the right direction, and I’ll keep trying. When the cravings get overwhelming, I make pie. No sugar added, with my grandmother’s amazing flaky crust. Just can’t be beat.

http://web.mit.edu/newsoffice/2004/carbs.html

Twitter and food

Our assignment for this module was the Twitter project. It was so interesting to me to see what kinds of stories we all conveyed through such a short form. 140 characters is really difficult for someone as verbose as I am to manage, but I adapted, and was really pleased with what I was able to express. Cooking for my food allergies, and the sensitivities of some of my friends and family is a little bit like that. I have to learn to do without some of the foods that I may think are essential, but the results end up being elegant and delicious anyway.

Someone that I cook for often has chronic Lyme Disease. She has an extremely long list of foods that are off limits for her, and sometimes it rotates, depending on what her doctors want her to avoid that month. I keep a list of her foods on my fridge, so I can immediately reference it when I am cooking for her. Cooking for her has taught me that I can make amazing gluten free, sugar free desserts. I invented a cake based on the recipe found at this link.

http://theworldaccordingtoeggface.blogspot.com

I’ve modified her recipe as follows:
1 egg beaten
4 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons cocoa
¼ cup plus one tablespoon of organic brown rice flour mix *
1/8 tsp of stevia, or to taste
pinch salt

Mix wet ingredients together. Mix dry ingredients separately. Add wet to dry, and blend thoroughly with fork. Pour into small greased and floured baking dish. Bake at 350 degrees until a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about twenty five minutes. Cake yields four small slices.

*Flour mix:
1 cup flour
¾ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda

I have also cooked for friends who are vegan, and even one who only eats raw food. (Of course I would say I prepare food for him. I don’t cook it.) All of this improvising has made me adept at substituting, or eliminating ingredients as I go. Usually I am fairly confident that my ideas will be successful.
I will close this post with a link to the Twitter account of a woman who made an entire cookbook of recipes that were short enough to fit on Twitter. She has combined this elegant short form of storytelling with my love of cooking.

http://http://twitter.com/#!/cookbook

Cooking as Courtship

Something that I’ve been thinking about lately is cooking as courtship. For module three, I made a video about how in my family food is love. It’s not the best video in the world, but it does show how my family’s emotional culture is all tied up in food and cooking. It is something that I have shared with every significant person in my adult life. If I love you, I feed you.

I was in a relationship for five years with a woman who had obsessive-compulsive disorder that presented itself in extreme food related issues. I remember feeling so frustrated by the limitations of cooking for her. It was so hard for me to show her my affection in this way, because her issues changed from day to day. I could rarely just make something for her and expect her to eat it, because what was ok for her changed so unpredictably.

Other partners have engaged in that love affair with me, making and sharing food in a dance of affection and seduction. My wife and I dance in the kitchen while we cook together. We play romantic music, share a drink, and revel in the scents, textures and flavors of our food. Then, after the joy of preparing the meal, we sit together, light some candles, and appreciate our creations. Pure bliss.
Below is my module three video. It’s not great technically, but it really does convey the emotions I am talking about in this post.

Higher learning

My adventures in cooking took a turn for the more interesting, or at least the more dramatic, last semester when I took a class called “The Science of Cooking.” The class consisted of modules that each dealt with a component of a meal, including protein, fruits, veggies, and bread. The point of the class was to incorporate scientific principals into everyday tasks, thereby making them easier to understand.

The experiments were one misadventure after the next. We did an experiment that involved studying how different mediums transfer heat, using eggs, and I blew up an egg in my oven. In the module about the changes that proteins undergo at different temperatures, I almost started a grease fire on my stove with the steak. I did an experiment involving gluten free baking, and ended up with a cake that tasted like chocolate corn bread. I had a few successful experiments, too. I learned to make the perfect salad dressing in our chapter on emulsions, and that cake experiment actually gave me useful information for my gluten free baking.

This class taught me that every tiny change I make in my cooking, from temperature, to changes in ingredients, have consequences. Before I took this class, I experimented without any real understanding of what those consequences were. Now, I have a much stronger grasp on why some substitutions work, and some leave me with a cake that is sunken in the middle like an angry child stepped on it.
This video is a great example of the kinds of things we learned in this class, and was actually one that we watched for an assignment:

Where it all began

 

Betty Crocker's Cookbook for Boys and Girls

My blog is loosely about my journey with food, but the story doesn’t begin there.  It begins when I was a little girl cooking with my Sicilian grandmother.  My earliest memories include Gloria Tripi up to her pretty dimpled elbows in flour, as she created her magic in the kitchen.  Bread, cakes, cannoli, pasta, sauce, pork chops, homemade pizza, stuffed artichokes, and oh so much more.  My childhood memories sing with the scents, flavors and textures of my grandmother’s food.  She let me start “helping” in the kitchen when I was very small, probably two or three.  I remember peering into bowls large enough to hold me and stirring whatever was inside.  She held the spoon, and provided the real force, but I was so proud to contribute.

When I was six years old, I got a cookbook from the school book sale called “Betty Crocker’s Cookbook for Boys and Girls.”  I went home that very day and made cheesy pretzels, all by myself.  My mother was a nurse who worked the night shift so she was sleeping, and my father was at work.  I don’t know where anyone else was, but I remember being alone in the kitchen.  I pushed a chair over to the stove so I could reach the controls for the oven and very carefully turned it on to 400 degrees.  My mother came downstairs when I was done baking them, and I told her that it was ok, I knew what I was doing from Grandma.  I never asked permission to cook or bake after that.  I just pushed a chair over to the stove so I could reach, and did whatever I wanted to do.

This independence had its downside, too.  I was soon roped into making food for the other kids whenever they were hungry.  I only have one brother and one sister, but our house was full of other people’s children, including four kids who lived with us for varying lengths of time through the years.  My brother always had crowds of boys in our house, playing Atari and nagging me to cook them hamburgers and fries.  I get this need to feed people from my Grandmother, and also from my father.  My father is a retired chef.  He was a steelworker at Bethlehem Steel, until they shut down and laid everyone off.  He had worked there from the time he was eighteen, and they laid him off three years before he would have retired with a full pension.  Instead, they sent him to school.  He chose food service management at Villa Maria College.  He interned at several restaurants in Buffalo, but he turned down jobs in all of them to work in the kitchen at Our Lady of Victory Hospital.  He wanted the regular hours that working in a hospital would give him.  It let him be home with us at night, and a part of our lives while we grew up, something that would not have been possible with the long late hours of busy restaurants.  My father is a creative, intuitive cook who loves to entertain, and loves to watch people eat his creations.  I get that from him.

I take traits from both of them, my grandma and my father, and make something new.  I am still independent.  I still like to do things myself, my own way.  I love to feed people, and I love cooking for crowds.  I have stepped away from my grandmother’s sugar and fat laden recipes, though, in search of something healthier and fresher.  I want to be able to make food that accommodates my food allergies, and still pleases everyone else who sits down at my table.  I hope that at least some of the time I succeed.

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